Beyond Red: Discovering the Garnet Gemstone
Tsavorite Green Garnet Ring designed by The Sapphire Merchant
Table of Contents
- What is Garnet?
- Almandine and Rhodolite Garnets
- Demantoid Garnets
- Mahenge, Malaya and Mali Garnets
- Spessatite Garnets
- Tsavorite Garnets
- Is Garnet a Suitable Gemstone for a Ring?
- Hunt for your Perfect Garnet
Garnet is the fruit basket of the gemstone world. Cherry reds, raspberry pinks, mandarin oranges, and watermelon greens all evoke the visual spectrum of this varied and vibrant natural gemstone. It comes as little surprise that the word 'garnet' derives from the Latin 'granatus', which translates to 'rounded seed' or 'grain'. The inside of a pomegranate is the inspiration for the name, as red garnet closely resembles the jewelled seeds of this exotic fruit.
1. What is Garnet?
Garnet is a silicate which grows in an isometric (cubic) crystal system. Pure silica would be colourless, but when it is combined with other trace elements, bold and vibrant colours are formed. Trace elements of iron and chromium will create red and green garnets, trace elements of vanadium will create green garnets, and trace elements of manganese will create orange and pink garnets. As a result, garnet is found in a spectacular array of colours, notably on a scale ranging from green to yellow, orange to red and purple. Garnet rates 7.5 - 8.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, making it a reasonably durable gemstone suitable for everyday wear. Its lustre is bright vitreous; its specific gravity (SG) ranges between 3.1 - 4.3, and its refractive index (RI) ranges between 1.70 - 1.79.
Spessartite Garnet Rough Gem Material
A Brief History of Garnet
Garnet, one of the earliest documented gemstones, holds a significant place in history, cherished across cultures with symbolism and folklore that sweeps back through the ages. It is believed to be referenced in the Bible, translated as carbuncle, and is speculated to be one of the stones in High Priest and Prophet Aaron's breastplate. The ancient Romans and Greeks set garnet, called carbunculus (a derivative of the Latin word), in their jewellery, particularly signet rings. They used these rings to seal important documents with wax. The ancient Egyptians used garnet in their adornments and talismans, with archaeological discoveries dating back to 1887 BC. The Celtic and Saxon kings wore garnet as decoration on their armour, and royalty across time and country have enjoyed the beauty of garnet and prized it as a valuable treasure.
How Many Different Types of Garnets Are There?
Garnet is a gemstone of remarkable diversity, available in many varieties with striking and vivid colour choices. Around 20 garnet species exist, but only five are considered commercially important as gems. These five are pyrope, almandine (also called almandite), spessartine, grossular (grossularite), and andradite. These five are pyrope, almandine (also called almandite), spessartine, grossular (grossularite), and andradite. Each type has its own unique properties and characteristics, making the world of garnets a fascinating one to explore. I will delve into the details of the garnet types in our extraordinary gem collection here at The Sapphire Merchant.
"The garnet, a stone of fire, was said to give guidance in the night, to protect its bearer from evil, and to inspire constancy and fidelity. It was regarded as a gem of faith and truth, granting its wearer strength in peril and loyalty in love." ~ George Frederick Kunz
7th century AD, Anglo-Saxon seax hilt fitting – gold with gemstone inlay of garnet cloisonné.
2. Almandine and Rhodolite Garnets
Almandine Garnet is the most common gem-quality garnet species found in metamorphic rocks such as schist and gneiss. It is often present in the exact geographic origins of diamonds and can indicate that diamonds are present. Some almandine garnets contain a mix of pyrope, giving them a more purple or raspberry-pink hue. Pure almandine garnet tends to be darker red, similar to the colour of a pigeon blood ruby. We love almandine garnet because of its overall visual presence. Almandine garnet is a natural showstopper, more readily available in larger carat sizes, in a range of popular gem cuts, and displaying crystal clarity with minimal natural inclusions; it's the perfect gemstone for a custom ring that visually attracts the eye.
Rhodolite Garnet is a mix of almandine and pyrope garnet composition, and its name is derived from the Greek word 'rhodon,' which means 'rose-tinted.' The most sought-after rhodolite garnets are a vibrant raspberry pink followed closely by a grape purple hue. Red rhodolite garnet has earned nicknames such as Arizona Ruby, New Mexico Ruby and Montana Ruby due to their copycat appearance. Rhodolite garnet is sometimes called Umbalite garnet, and this name is used explicitly for gemstones originating from the Umba River mining region in Tanzania, Africa.
Deposits for almandine and rhodolite are found across four continents, including Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, the USA and Zimbabwe.
3. Demantoid Garnets
Russian Demantoids
Demantoid Garnet, discovered in 1868 in Russia's Ural Mountains range, is considered the rarest type of garnet. Its rarity adds to its desirability, making it a luxurious choice among the garnet family. Highly refractive, demantoid garnet boasts a green colour that rivals an emerald and a fiery dispersion and brilliance that rivals a diamond. It is rarely found in sizes over 1 carat, further enhancing its exclusivity. For these reasons, demantoid garnet is often considered the most luxurious choice of the garnet family. This green beauty was a favourite precious gemstone of Carl Fabergé, a jeweller to the Imperial Family of Russia. Fabergé often incorporated demantoid garnet into his iconic imperial Easter eggs.
Namibian Demantoids
In 1996, a demantoid deposit was unearthed in the Erongo Region of northern Namibia. This discovery led to a refreshed supply of high-quality demantoids in the global gem market and revived interest in a gemstone that had largely dwindled in circulation.
What is the difference between Russian demantoids and Namibian demantoids?
The difference between the Russian demantoid and the Namibian demantoid comes down to colour and clarity. The Namibian-origin gem material leans towards a yellowish-green (olive) or brownish-green, whereas the Russian gem material is a more saturated green. Additionally, the Namibian-origin demantoid often presents with less natural inclusions and better clarity than its Russian counterpart. However, the Russian demantoid garnet has a natural inclusion specific to its origin, which is highly prized.
Horsetail Inclusions in Demantoid Garnets
The horsetail inclusion is created by natural asbestos fibres trapped in the garnet upon formation and radiating from a very small chromite crystal. This inclusion is a distinctive fine golden thread that curves, resembling its namesake, a horsetail. A complete and well-formed horsetail inclusion can increase the value of the demantoid and add to its beauty and appeal. A horsetail inclusion is also considered a diagnostic feature of a Demantoid, confirming its Russian origin.
4. Mahenge Garnets, Malaya Garnets and Mali Garnets
Mahenge Garnets
Mahenge Garnet is named after the area in which they are found, Mahenge, a town in a mountainous region of Tanzania. Mahenge is famous for its neon pink-hued gemstones, particularly spinel. Chromium and trace amounts of iron, a unique combination of elements, give the Mahenge-mined gemstones their strikingly vibrant hues.
Malaya Garnets
Malaya Garnet is a hybrid variety of Garnet, a mix of Almandine, Pyrope and Spessartite Garnet. Discovered in the 1960s in Umba River Valley, bordering Tanzania and Kenya, the term Malaya means 'outcast' or 'prostitute' in Swahili. Local miners initially gave this term because dealers would not purchase it as it did not fit into known garnet categories. It was a byproduct of the mines! Now, Malaya garnet is more cherished for its beauty and colour range, found in shades of pink, peach, red, orange and brown; it makes a vibrant centrepiece for a custom jewellery design.
Dragon Garnet
Dragon Garnet is a newly identified type of garnet discovered in 2022 in Tanzania. This garnet is primarily a pyrope-spessartine garnet with some almandine content and has been classified within the Malaya garnet family. Its distinguishing characteristics include a purplish-pink hue and a remarkable red fluorescence, attributed to elements like chromium, vanadium, and iron in its composition. Its striking colour change properties under different lighting sources inspired the name 'Dragon Garnet'. This garnet's scarcity is due to its limited alluvial mining deposits in Tanzania, which are extracted mostly through artisanal methods on tribal lands, and sizes over 1 carat are rarely found.
Mali Garnets
Mali Garnet, named after the only country it is found in, is a rare mixture of grossular and andradite, with colours ranging from yellowish-green, brownish-green, and brown through to a minty green hue. Mali garnet is prized for its striking brilliance and diamond lustre, making less desirable gem colours such as brown visually attractive. Mali garnet prices have soared in recent years due to scarcity and desirability.
5. Spessartite Garnets
Spessartite garnet is a reddish-orange variety of garnet. The name 'Spessartite' is derived from the Bavarian word, 'spessart', meaning 'forest', a mountain range in Germany where spessartite garnet deposits were present in the 1880s. A spessartite garnet deposit was discovered in Namibia in 1991, and this led to a remarkable comeback from a garnet that had almost vanished from the market.
What is a Fanta Garnet?
In the early 1990s, a further deposit was discovered in Nigeria. This deposit produced a spessartite, which matched the colour of the well-known soft drink Fanta or the skin of a mandarin. The term Fanta garnet or mandarin garnet is reserved for spessartites displaying an intense, pure orange tone, and these garnets are generally higher in value. A very narrow band of colour allows for the term 'Fanta' or 'mandarin' to be used when grading the gemstone. Not all spessartite can be graded with this trade term. If they are a darker reddish-orange, then the Fanta or mandarin terminology shouldn't be applied.
Inclusions in Fanta Garnet
Because this bright orange hue in gemstones, in general, is extremely rare and more challenging to source, inclusions in Fanta and mandarin garnets are generally tolerated. Much like emerald and Paraiba tourmaline, because supply is so limited, orange garnets that are moderately to significantly included still retain their value.
6. Tsavorite Garnet
Tsavorite garnet, alongside Demantoid garnet, is considered one of the most luxurious, rare and valuable garnet types. Prices have continued to lift over the past few years, reflecting its desirability in the use of fine jewellery pieces.
Tsavorite garnet takes its place in the grossular garnet group, a fabulous vivid green gemstone that rivals an emerald in looks and beauty. It was discovered in 1968 by Scottish geologist Campbell R. Bridges, who was also involved in the initial discovery of Tanzanite (alongside the Masaai tribe). Campbell Bridges played a crucial role in bringing Tsavorite garnet to international prominence and worked tirelessly to develop it as a valued gemstone until his tragic death in 2009.
Tsavorite was named by Harry Platt, the president of iconic Tiffany & Co., who also named Tanzanite, and he was an instrumental part in marketing these precious gemstones into the West. Mined in eastern Africa, specifically Kenya and Tanzania, Mr Platt named it after the Tsavo East National Park in Kenya, close to the Tanzania border where it was first discovered. This is the only known Tsavorite deposit worldwide.
How Rare is Tsavorite Garnet?
As with all gemstones, there are different qualities and grades of Tsavorite garnet, with less than 1% of Tsavorite that is mined considered exceptional. Most tsavorites on the market contain inclusions, and due to the geology of the gemstone, some inclusions are inevitable. Eye and loupe clean tsavorites are highly coveted and difficult to find, and the price will reflect if the gem is clean. Top-grade tsavorites are generally well cut and polished to take advantage of their high refractive index, allowing them to beautifully reflect light and attain excellent brilliance.
Tsavorite garnet is rarer and often brighter than an emerald, and rating a sturdy 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale outperforms an emerald on everyday durability. Tsavorite is also more cost-effective than emerald. For these reasons, those seeking a vibrant green gem for a custom jewellery piece are opting for Tsavorite over emerald.
7. Is Garnet a Suitable Gemstone for a Ring?
Yes! Garnets are an excellent gemstone choice for a custom engagement ring or jewellery piece. Their bold, bright colours and availability in more significant carat sizes lend themselves well to those wanting to create a jewellery piece that is visually bold and eye-catching.
Garnet is the birthstone of January
Traditionally, we think of garnets as red in hue; however, those born in January have many extraordinary options for garnets, with many different shades of colour to choose from! The Sapphire Merchant collection offers a beautiful selection of garnets for those wanting to create a custom jewellery piece that reflects their birth month.
A Tsavorite Garnet Engagement Ring
We sourced this Tsavorite garnet on a 2024 buying trip in Bangkok, Thailand, the coloured gemstone capital of the world. We were instantly enamoured by its generous carat size, exceptional clarity and excellent cut and polish. It was an instant decision to acquire this beautiful garnet for our natural gemstone collection; Tsavorites of this calibre are not readily available. Our extraordinary 3.02ct Tsavorite Garnet Ring features 204 D Colour VVS Diamonds set in 18k white gold. This ring showcases the Tsavorite Garnet with a glittering halo of pear-shaped diamonds. The ring was designed by The Sapphire Merchant and crafted by our expert team of jewellery artisans.
Tsavorite garnet engagement ring featuring 18k white gold and D-Colour VVS1 diamonds, designed and made by The Sapphire Merchant.
7. Hunt for your Perfect Garnet
Peruse our extraordinary collection of natural garnets, each a rare, unique treasure. If you have a particular requirement, we have access to the most exquisite and hard-to-find garnets through our incredible network of the world's best gem dealers.
We offer in-person viewings for New Zealand residents and virtual viewings for our international clients, ensuring you have access to the most exclusive gemstones.
Our design process is a true collaboration, entwining your vision with our creativity. Upon choosing your precious gemstone, we gather information to conceptualise your vision. Using computer-aided design (CAD) technology, we transform your jewellery idea into a detailed 3D model. You have the flexibility to customise every aspect of your design idea, and we will guide you through this creative process, ensuring your unique vision is brought to life.
Once the design is perfected, our skilled team of jewellery artisans brings your piece to life with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring the highest-quality finish. With The Sapphire Merchant, you get a breathtaking piece of jewellery and a memorable experience tailored to your requirements. We will create for you a cherished heirloom that will be treasured for generations to come.
Tsavorite garnet engagement ring featuring 18k white gold and D-Colour VVS1 diamonds, designed and made by The Sapphire Merchant.